Common Beech (Fagus sylvatica)

Profile: The common beech is one of roughly 10 species of beech that is native to the UK. These trees grow in various locations within the northern hemisphere. The common beech has smooth grey bark and ovate wavy-edged edged leaves that are green in Spring, then turning into a glossier green in Summer, then finally changing to a yellow/orange-brown in Autumn. The common beech will keep a good amount of their old leaves and they normally won't drop until the following spring.

Tree Position: Keep this bonsai outside in a sheltered position and protected from strong winds. It may be displayed inside for up to 3 days at a time. When placed outside, place the bonsai where it will receive full sun/part shade. During mid-summer, on very hot days, keep this tree in part shade. 

Watering: The Beech loves frequent watering on hot days. Water only when required though. Ensure that the soil is always damp but not soaking wet. How often you water your bonsai will depend on the weather and how deep your bonsai pot is. Use your finger to check how damp the soil is before watering. If it feels a little dry, then go ahead and water. As a general rule, water every day when it's hot, and water twice a week in colder winter months. Try not to follow a schedule when watering though, instead, check the soil to see if it is wet or dry. Wait a minute or two after watering, then water again. In Japanese bonsai culture they have a saying for this; 'For bonsai, it rains two times'. 

Fertilizing: Feed your Beech fortnightly from mid-spring through to autumn with a liquid fertilizer that has a balanced N.P.K ratio. Always follow the directions on the fertilizer packet, and water the bonsai thoroughly before feeding to avoid root burn. Don't feed your bonsai during winter as the soil temperature isn't high enough to trigger the bonsai's response to uptake nutrients. Do not fertilize if the tree is weak or diseased. Lastly, do not fertilize newly re-potted trees for at least a few weeks.

Re-potting: Re-pot this tree every year or two during late winter or early spring just before the buds break. The soil you use should be a well-drained soil. A basic mix consists of 1 part Dalton's coarse pumice and 1 part Dalton's potting mix. Ideally, you should use a 2 mm sieve to get most of the fine particles out. You can trim up to one-third of the roots before your bonsai goes back into the bonsai pot. Secure the tree to the pot with wire through the drainage holes. Place the bonsai in a sheltered and slightly shaded spot for a week or two after repotting. At this crucial stage, we want to shelter the bonsai from the hot sun, heavy rain, frost, snow, and wind. Lastly, be careful to not overwater your bonsai after repotting. 

Trimming: During spring and summer, your bonsai will be in full growth. Trimming is done to keep unwanted growth in check, direct growth, and to develop ramified foilage. During spring when the tree starts to wake up, pinch back the new growing tips (after the leaf emerges). This will reduce the internode length considerably (do this for refined bonsai only, not bonsai that you plan on growing larger). At the end of Spring, cut the stems back to the desired distance (prune back to a bud that is facing the way you want the future growth to go) When making a cut, use sharp scissors and cut on a 45-degree angle. Aim to cut right above a leaf node. Before trimming spindly growth, think to yourself, will this stem grow into a branch that I may find useful? 

Pruning: This involves cutting larger branches and requires you to have a concave or branch cutter ( if you have neither, a sharp pair of secateurs will do) The best time to make strategic pruning cuts on the common Beech is during late-winter or in mid-summer. Don't remove more than one-third of the tree's foliage when pruning unless the Beech was vigorous in its last growing season. The overall shape you are trying to achieve is a triangular silhouette where the top of the tree is highest. Unsightly branches should also be removed. This includes dead branches, branches that cross over each other, and branches that hide the bottom third of the trunk. Create space so light and air can enter the tree. 

Wiring: Wire the Beech branches at any time of the year. Larger branches will take longer to set than smaller branches. Ensure you are using the right thickness of wire for each branch. A general rule of thumb is that you should apply wire that is roughly 1/3 the thickness of the branch you are planning to wire. Remember to check on the wire that is applied in early spring as branches thicken very quickly during this time and the wire may cut into the wood and leave marks on the barks smooth surface. Beeches have begun to show wire marks after a week when the growth is strong and the wire is a little too tight. When wiring, try to turn any straight growth into curves (this includes the trunk and branches. Old trees tend to have twisted trunks and branches, so we copy nature here.

Pests and diseases: The Beech fairly resilient to most pests, however on occasion you may aphids on new growth. Be careful with frequent waterings in Autumn and Winter, as the moisture won't evaporate as fast during this time of the year and so this will cause powdery mildew around the old leaves.

Bonsai Difficulty: ★☆☆☆☆